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HISTORY OF PERFUME

The human use of scents, aromas and fragrances has its origins lost in ancient times. Why,
when and how people first started to prepare them may never be known, but archeological
findings, early written texts and oral tradition show that the history of aromas goes
deep back in time. Early civilizations offered scent flowers, herbs and resins in worship
of their Gods. When burned, some plants released stronger aromas and scented smoke fires
became part of religious rituals, a mystical mean of communication between heaven and
earth, a tradition followed by many religions until present day.
When looking back into history, many agree that the Egyptians, during Queen Sheba's rule,
were the first to incorporate perfume into their culture. From the religious ceremonies
involving the burning of incense to the embalming of the dead, perfume was an integral
part of Egyptian life. Even scents like myrrh were considered more valuable than gold. In
the Bible, one of the Three Wise Men brought this as a gift to the newborn Christ. But
perfume did not only linger in spiritual ceremonies: the Egyptians were also the first to
anoint their bodies with the scents of cinnamon and honey. Depicted on the walls of the
temple of Edfu, one can also see the depiction of the art of floral extraction as perfume
is distilled from the flowers of the white Madonna lily. This essential accessory was
reserved mostly for the powerful and the wealthy. Both men and women alike wore the
precious scents.
With the death of the mystical Cleopatra, so also died the Egyptian grandeur and
appreciation of beauty. For thousands of years perfumes had been used widely as an
integral part of their culture even though almost all of the herbs and flowers were from
abroad, from Palestine, Persia, India, and Arabia.
In Persia, perfume was also a sign of rank. In the palaces one could see kings with
crowns of myrrh and of labyzuz and smell the aromas of sweetly smelling scents drifting
in the air of their apartments. In the backyards of homes belonging to the wealthy, one
could find exquisite gardens holding jasmine, lilacs, violets, and the famous red rose.
This rose whose petals covered the floor when Cleopatra first met Mark Antony and that
would become the symbol of the House of Lancaster during the War of the Roses, was known
all over the world for its perfume which increased in intensity as the petals dried. The
Persians began to master the art of preservation by placing the rose buds in sealed jars
to be later opened for a special occasion. Persians also used perfumes after bathing. 
It was not until after Alexander the Great, with his desire for conquest, defeated Darius
III of Persia and moved to Egypt that he adopted the use of perfumes. It is said that his
floors were sprinkled with scented waters and that his clothes were imprinted the
perfumes of fragrant resins and myrrh. But the perfume found its magic in the folds of
ancient Greek religion. The Greeks believed the Gods were perfume's inventors and it was
said that the visit of a God or Goddess was marked with the sweet smell as a token of
their presence. They held a special place in ceremonies. It is interesting that the first
gold medal in the Olympic Games was a piece of art in the shape of a golden violet.
Perfume was an integral part of Greek society, even though some of the greatest
philosophers like Socrates found them effeminate. However Greeks also made their mark on
the world of perfume. They played an important role in the science of perfume by
categorizing them by the part of the plant from which they were made and documenting
their compositions.
The Romans first celebrated scent around 750 B.C. in religious ceremonies to celebrate
the Goddess of Flora. Each year the ceremonies would be held to celebrate the first
flowers of the season. Later, the ceremony was held each year on April 28, four days
before May Calend (this ceremony was adopted by the British and is now known as May Day).
The Romans were also known for their gardens, but the flowers were mainly used for
garlands to be worn in their maiden's hair. When the Roman's began their world conquest
they began to adopt the use of perfume into their own culture. Greek influence was
especially prominent in the use of perfume in religious ceremonies. As the Roman culture
began to adopt these scents, one could see its effect everywhere. In fact, it was
Constantine the Great who brought the use of scents into the Christian church. He had
oils and incense burned in the church of St. John-in-Latrine, which was home to the early
Popes for thousands of years. Even today, one can see the continuing of this ceremony as
the Pope gives his annual blessing of the Golden Rose.
It is clear how perfume has played a significant role in religion. But this did not just
belong to the cultures described above. Mohammed centers his religion on the enjoyment of
material pleasures, including perfume. He promised his believers the Garden of Paradise
where the most exotic perfumes could be found. The Koran speaks of those who make the
journey across the razor-edge thin bridge of Al Sirat will drink form the waters that are
whiter than milk, more perfumed than musk. It was an Arabian doctor, Avicenna, who was
the first to obtain the oil from flowers, known as attar, by distillation. Before this
revelation, perfumes were derived from the bark of twigs and shrubs in the form of
resins. 
Visitors of Arabian homes would be sprinkled with rose water as a mark of esteem. Their
coffees would be flavored with roses. A bowl of charcoal would be passes around after the
meal and sprinkled with incense in which the guests' garments would be wrapped. When the
guest left, they would have their beards and garments sprinkled with incense as a parting
gesture.
In India, perfumes also play a major role in their culture. Plants have always abounded
in their country and the Hindu have adapted their scents into religion. The flames meant
for sacrifices would be sending out aromatic scents of ointments and herbs. In Hindu
marriages the bride is rubbed with scents by her handmaid and later the married couple
will sit beneath a silk canopy enveloped by the smells of sandalwood and other delicious
scents. The god of love, Kama, is always shown carrying his cupids bow and his five
arrows that are each tipped with a fragrant blossom. The scent of patchouli, which
personally reminds me of my hippie roommate from freshman year and still makes me feel
nauseous to this day (patchouli, not my roommate!), was used later to scents Indian
shawls.
In China, incense is also used in religious ceremonies such as the death of a family
member. The body would be washed and perfumed and incense would be lit in the room. The
mourners would carry lighted sticks scented with incense during the processional. Chinese
women wore their hair in buns that were wrapped with flowers whose fragrances would last
for quite some time. Appreciation of scents such as sandalwood spread also to Japan. The
Japanese religion Shinto uses the burning of incense and other gums during ceremonial
occasions. 
Now, in modern times perfumes, scents, and fragrances have continued to become part of
virtually everyone's lives. You can find the scents of numerous plants and flowers in so
many different perfumes and colognes. Like the ancient peoples who used the natural
aromas of plants and flowers, we too in modern times, seek the comfort or soothing effect
of aromas. More recently however, aromatherapy has become highly popular in the American
culture. Using natural herbs, plants and flowers, it has been found that these aromas
have various effects on people, from a natural aphrodisiac to a relaxing calming effect.
Listed below are several common plants and flowers used today in aromatherapy.
Peppermint, Mentha piperita
It has been said that Peppermint has been known to relieve headaches. Just one drop of
Peppermint in a teaspoon of cream or unscented oil (sweet almond or jojoba) rubbed gently
onto your neck can actually help soothe a throbbing headache. Another way in which
peppermint can help is by using its healing qualities with nausea (maybe I'll try it next
time I smell patchouli!).
Rosemary, Rosmarinus officinalis
Rosemary is for remembrance. This unique oil has said to awaken the mind and stimulate
memory. Many report that Rosemary helps to retain more information and perform well on
exams. It also can be very nourishing to hair and can be added to shampoo to add
nutrients to stimulate hair growth.
Calendula, Calendula officinalis
This is a common marigold and has bright orange, yellow, and deep brown flowers. It is
grown mainly for its medicinal qualities. Therapeutically, calendula oils are known for
its ability to soothe rough, dry, injured or cracked skin. We like to use it combined
with the herbally infused oils of arnica and St. John's Wort.
Clary Sage, Salvia sclarea
This can be used for several purposes, the first of which is stress, something that
millions of Americans experience every day. If you have high blood pressure, diffusing
clary sage into the room or bath may help. It also has been known to help people with
asthma or respiratory problems.
Geranium, Pelargonium graveolens
This can help many people feel emotionally uplifted. It is also known to reduce swelling,
especially fluid retention and adema of the ankles.
Lavender, Lavandula angustifolia
Lavender is the oil of balance. It provides relief for a multiple of problems including
headaches, muscle aches, insomnia, skin problems, digestive disorders, and stress. It can
also help to soothe a bee sting or bug bite.
It is evident that the use of herbs, flowers and plants in scents varies throughout
different cultures and times, but the basic purpose remains the same- to provide people
with a natural way to express themselves and as in the case of modern aromatherapy, to
provide natural alternatives or solutions to common problems.
A History of Perfume

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